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Printing 3d ShoutBox

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Messages - shawdreamer

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 18
General Discussion / Re: Prusa "Stats"
« on: Today at 01:37:46 AM »
The ANET stats

"Pah..... thatll do I suppose"


glass (Borosilicate or other) isnt by nature a good heat transmitter though it does disperse it quite evenly (the glass on the front of your oven door is borosilicate for example so you can imagine how dangerous itd be if it got as hot as the inside of your oven every time you turned it on :laugh:)

generally people use glass beds for the absolute flatness they offer (though Ive seen warped ones before :rolleyes:) and typically you often have to up your bed temp settings by anything upto 20c depending on the thickness and quality of the glass, its worth noting though that glass by itself with no additional surface prep doesnt really offer a good adhesion for most materials.

I rarely if ever use glass myself and even on those occasions I either coat it in a even layer of strong hair spray (you can get butter to stick to the bed with a good bit of loreal firm hold :laugh:) or a more simpler, cheaper and remarkably effective method is a document laminating sheet (like the ones you can buy at any stationary shop etc), you simply cut out a piece of the sheet to the size of your glass, lay it on it, then ramp up the temp till the laminates glue surface go's off, then smooth out any bubbles and your good to go....Barring Kapton tape Ive not found anything as effective for use across multiple filament types.

octoprint shouldnt be doing anything to alter the print layer height.

layer depth and pretty much all the printing parameters are handled by the slicer and are contained within the final sliced G-code it generates, afaik a standard Octoprint setup should literally just be behaving as a go between/middle man.

you sure you havnt accidentally altered a slicer option?, its not that hard to do without noticing, even with years under my belt I still occassionally screw up something that simple without clocking on.

General Discussion / Re: Prusa PEI coating
« on: January 04, 2019, 03:32:21 PM »
even if you dont use it for vaping abs parts, some pure acetone is good to have on hand for cleaning a bed surface, quick wipe over pei, glass, printbite or similar and its like new, I generally give my Kapton tape coat print bed a quick wipe every couple of days which gives it back any adhesion it might have lost from print residue or dust.  Also handy to have for rejuvenating/salvaging any nozzles/throats that are blocked with abs (and some lesser blocked petg nozzles).

General Discussion / Re: It pays to experiment
« on: December 29, 2018, 06:17:05 PM »
Id avoid using a printbite surface (which is what you have iirc from the other days description) as it grips to it like a limpet :angry:

the only problem with using painters tape (the blue stuff) is it often colour transfers onto the model which can be proper annoying, you might want to try just using normal standard white masking tape with flexi, its lacks a little less grip ability than the blue stuff but with flexi thats actually a bonus half the time.

General Discussion / Re: It pays to experiment
« on: December 29, 2018, 11:59:33 AM »
there are alot of flex filaments available now that are actually based on PLA formula so often print exactly the same settings.

The Excelvan FlexPla I use prints perfectly fine on the same Pla settings as I generally use for stock Pla, the only difference is bed adhesion (generally the flex sticks to the bed like its been superglued so it helps to have a removable bed surface that can be flexed itself to help the print come away)

General Discussion / Re: Did 'YOU' print today?
« on: December 21, 2018, 11:16:49 AM »

General Discussion / Re: Did 'YOU' print today?
« on: December 17, 2018, 10:33:54 AM »
Looking good. I appreciate it was cut up for printing, but if you have a record, what was the time of the largest bit and approx total print time please? Would like to see the final product, too.

total print time was around the 12hr mark

largest took about 6hrs

thats with:-

0.4mm tip (its getting painted so wasnt arsed about visual layers)
0.2mm layer (could get away with 03mm with a 0.4mm tip, would speed up print but reduce quality)
Iron/steel PLA (but personally It just looks like shiney grey to me)

first thin coat of acrylic based paint slapped on

next couple of coats will go on thick and should fill up those layer signs quite nicely, then Il get the airbrush out and do some highlighting :frantic:

<short time later>....

second coat....layers and joints disappearing nicely :azn

<after giving up this morning on the air brush tip which is to badly gone>

broke out the tiny brushes and just did some weathering highlights.

General Discussion / Re: Did 'YOU' print today?
« on: December 16, 2018, 10:22:39 PM »

bit of smoothing to do then paint and led's ~~

General Discussion / Re: Did 'YOU' print today?
« on: December 13, 2018, 08:47:34 PM »
half way through fueling my sons addiction to his favorite game.....

can you tell what it is?...

just need to print the snout pieces and smooth and paint... maybe add some leds to create a flame effect inside (looks like the remaining leds and arduino's are gonna find a use afterall

General Discussion / Re: What did the Postman bring today?
« on: November 25, 2018, 12:00:47 PM »
Figured  Id give one of these "slap-on" CCTree magnetic heat bed jobs a go before I went ahead and converted my Pro-B's bed to the same as my Polturs.

arrived earlier, trimmed it down.... "slapped-it-on"

As the Poltur is currently my ABS/PetG monster workhorse at the mo I loaded the ProB up with the most troublesome PLA I have to hand, namely Esun's (which rarely likes to adhere to anything barring masking tape :rolleyes:, which I absolutely hate using as its just so bloody old school :banghead:), then Ive thrown a small footprint intricate model at it, see how its faired in a half hour or so :hmm:

(roughly 30mins later)....

aye not bad, held nice, not a terrible bed facia finish (even though I leveled the bed terribly and it printed a tad high) and peeled off nice and clean afterwards so Ill give it a thumbs up me thinks ~~

only thing I have my doubts about now is using a mag prox. sensor for bed leveling (which is what I intended when changing to a SS bed), might just go with a touch probe instead, not as accurate imo but should suffice.

General Discussion / Re: Is it me?
« on: November 25, 2018, 10:00:04 AM »
personally, after long hours of designing, testing and re-designing (repeat several dozen times :cry), I doubt there's a 3d printed wing design out their that can stand-up to heavy stress maneuvers for anything like a extended amount of time and even less that can stand-up to a less than gentle landing.

on the brief moments of madness when I swing back to contemplating actually printing the wing design I made a while back I usually come to a logical conclusion, Id have to do something to it post printing to increase its durability, now if I do it in ABS (which I likely would) there's the acetone vaping route which granted works well but would mean chopping the model into vape managable chunks thus adding more weak points were the joins would be....kinda defeats the objective of vaping it in the first place :rolleyes:

the only other option I could think of was a "skin" of some sort, something like the ultra thin laminate sheet skins already used on balsa RC planes and wings, with a bit of careful time taken that stuff can be heat gunned into a even smooth skin across the whole frame and add some if not a great deal of overall strength to the frame :hmm:

Still think it'd just explode on the first bad landing though ::)

General Discussion / Re: What did the Postman bring today?
« on: November 24, 2018, 03:17:14 PM »
Some more acetone    :rofl:    (from Shawdereamer's recommendation......very fast, though sending highly flammable liquids by unlabelled ordinary mail surely is against the rules??)

If they have to start sending it "special" courier where screwed from postal costs

General Discussion / Re: Acetone Vaping made easy.
« on: November 18, 2018, 10:03:41 AM »
Very simple, pop the lid on which starts the process, once lid is covered in condensation remove lid and your part is vaped :wack0

that rule of thumb works well with smaller parts (thats pretty much what I do myself even using the pyrex ;)) but its less successful with the larger stuff (like some of my quadcopter frames) which tend to come out with an uneven finish which though not a disaster does kinda spoil the visual effect :cry

General Discussion / Re: Acetone Vaping made easy.
« on: November 16, 2018, 04:38:23 PM »
I use one of these for vaping ABS prints:

Cheap, safe and easy to setup outside so no risk of fumes in the house.

someone mentioned something along those lines when I first started looking into doing it but you cant see how your prints are coming along except from the top  :embarrassed,  If you use a Pyrex you can check almost 360 if its coated well  ~~

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