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Tronxy X5Sa

Started by trebor, March 13, 2018, 12:43:44 pm

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trebor

If I posted in the wrong place just delete it and Ill start again  ~~
I pushed the button on this
https://m.banggood.com/TRONXY-X5SA-DIY-Aluminium-3D-Printer-330330400mm-Printing-Size-With-Updated-Touch-Screen-p-1261004.html?rmmds=search
I might get some 5mm or 3mm
https://www.banggood.com/100pcs-M5-Hammer-Nut-Nickel-Plated-Carbon-Steel-Nut-Aluminum-Connector-T-Fastener-Sliding-Nut-p-1048442.html?rmmds=mywishlist&cur_warehouse=CN
for mounting controls but I am not sure on the size of the alloy box section yet.
Let me know what else I might need as I have plenty of time before it comes.

Gaza07

I always get my T nuts (hammer nuts ) from here  https://www.robotdigg.com/product/237/Post-assembly-T-nuts-for-1515,-2020-or-3030-aluminum-profile
Ive used 3mm 4mm and 5mm nuts but found the 4mm to be the most used  ~~
Custom built delta with Flex3Drive Gen 4 / Duet Electronics 330mm build area
Custom built delta with Flex3Drive Gen 4 / Duet Electronics 180mm build area
AnyCubic 4max XY printer 210x210x300 build area
AnyCubic Kossel Mini 180x180x300 build area
Geetech A10M Dual Colour 220x220x260 build area
Kelant Orbeat D100 DLP/SLA

http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk
https://www.thingiverse.com/Gaza07/about

trebor

You shouldn't have shown me that site as I saw a nice mini delta  :rolleyes:

Gaza07

Ive spent a fortune there bought all the gear or a lot of it to make my mini delta  :rolleyes:
Custom built delta with Flex3Drive Gen 4 / Duet Electronics 330mm build area
Custom built delta with Flex3Drive Gen 4 / Duet Electronics 180mm build area
AnyCubic 4max XY printer 210x210x300 build area
AnyCubic Kossel Mini 180x180x300 build area
Geetech A10M Dual Colour 220x220x260 build area
Kelant Orbeat D100 DLP/SLA

http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk
https://www.thingiverse.com/Gaza07/about

trebor

Should I get replacement nozzles and a couple of belt clamps as I have seen people just use cable ties to fix belt ends. Maybe I could do with a spare set of belts  :shrug:
Next thing is to buy some filament, any good places to purchase from ? has anyone got filament from RS components before as there is one not far from me. 

shawdreamer

If you start buying spares before you even need them it'll never end, you'll end up with a second printers worth of "spare parts" :laugh:

as for filament, I'm loving HobbyKings own ABS right now, their still doing a nice selection at 9 quid a 1kg roll too so its win win, the PLA isn't to bad either but not as good quality (has to be run at 200c to get it to flow really cleanly)
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

trebor

Think on I'm a novice, maybe abs might be asking too much to start with. What would be best for making improvements to parts on my printer like double sided cooling. I know the heated plate will need insulating and boosting unless they've sorted it out.

shawdreamer

If your set on a printer now then have a troll through thingiverse and see what "fixes" and "mods" crop up for the x5s, tha'll give you some idea of what issue if any you might want to address once you receive your printer.
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

trebor

What's the best filament to make the mods out of ?

shawdreamer

depends really.

non-structural or light structural supporting parts are good with PLA, also parts that need high degrees of accuracy are often better printed in PLA (such as gears, cogs and screws etc)

ABS is the better choice if the part will undergo more structural stress (eg if your replacing a printer stock frame part its usually better to use ABS)

heat is another factor that has to be considered also,  Its best to keep PLA built parts away from heat sources such as your heated bed and extruder as PLA's low glass temp will see it soften again even with just the heat from the bed.

A good example is tip cooling mods were a printed part funnels the airflow from a fan to cool the printed part, these are often in close proximity to the extruder and bed and even without direct contact with the tip PLA will soften and distort so there often printed in ABS
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

trebor

There`s a lot to learn

shawdreamer

true of anything but its never as complex and daunting as it first seems, in the case of 3d printers you can do as much research and info cramming as you want beforehand but you'll always find it much easier and rewarding to learn by doing
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

trebor

I need to make a double sided cooling head first but it's quite near the heat, I suppose abs is best for that but the printer has open sides which will need boxing in to retain the heat before I can do that. I could do with another printer that's sorted to make the bits for this 😄

shawdreamer

enclosing a tronxy x5 should be silly easy, its main outer cube frame is made up of extrusion afterall so bolting a few sheets of acrylic/Perspex to its sides would be a absolute doddle.
Geeetech Prusa i3 pro-B (ABS Workhorse)
Pultur Prusa (my own design)
Poltur XL (my own "MUST BE BIGGER" design)
Poltur XL v.2 (my own "MUST BE BIGGER STILL, MUST USE EXTRUSION" design)
https://www.thingiverse.com/shawdreamer/designs

trebor

It's been dispatched  :frantic: